Shanghai | Sushi Oyama 鮨 大山
Shanghai is probably the best destination to eat.Nowadays there are increasingly number of high-end sushiya in Shanghai, and Sushi Oyama is one of the most popular one. 上海无疑是现在中国大陆餐饮业发展地最快最全面的城市了，不管你喜欢什么菜式，我很肯定你都会找到心仪的餐厅。我的读者应该都知道我很喜欢吃寿司和日本料理，也经常趁着假期飞去日本吃米其林餐厅。虽然上海有越来越多的新寿司店开出来，但是鮨大山还是很多日料迷的老去处。
Last visit: Jun.8.2015 (Dinner) Address: 2F, 20 Donghu Rd near Huaihai Middle Rd, Xuhui District, Shanghai (上海市徐汇区东湖路20号2楼,近淮海中路) Price: RMB 1280+ per person Omakase
Located on 20 Donghu Road, house for few other famous restaurants such as Ochobo and el Efante, Sushi Oyama is an exquisite Japanese sushi restaurant that offers a multi-course "omakase," or chef's choice, menu that changes nightly for reservation-only guests.
鮨 大山位于东湖路20号，除了周日之外每天晚上营业。餐厅只供应一份1280元的Omakase套餐。鮨 大山是一家预约制的寿司店，所以到店之前请记得预约。个人比较推荐寿司吧台的座位，可以看见大山先生亲自制作料理的过程。
Sushi Oyama serves only one RMB 1280 Omakase menu every night. Make sure you make a reservation before you visit here, seatings at the counter to complete your dining experience.
We arrived on time at 6:30pm and soonly being seated. The meal starts soon with a cup of hot tea, chef Oyama's disciple prepared some baked Okinawa sea salt as well as the regular setting of fresh wasabi and ginger.
First came assorted sashimi. The akagai was crunchy and has a very clean taste, Botan shrimp in the middle was juicy and sweet, it came much creamier as i chew it. The scallop was best to serve with sea salt as the chef mentioned, it was pretty juicy and tender. My favorite item among these three was the last one.
The French oyster was served on the side, together with the previous sashimi plate. The clean and juicy taste of fresh oyster nicely waken our plate.
Next came the grilled dish. We were told to have the fish skin first, better without any sauce. The fish skin has a lovely burnt smell, the combination of the slight crispy fish skin and its rich natural oils underneath was superb. While the fish meat part was quite tender. In general not bad, but neither impressive.
After the appetizers, chef Oyama-san then walked into the counter and prepare to make sushi. He had been making Japanese food for 20 years includes both sushi and hot kitchen, during he opened Sushi Oyama, he worked in Hong Kong, Australia, Tokyo and Osaka.
To me is quite wired to have toro as the first piece of sushi, because toro is a red fish that is high in flavor, it is usually served after white fish with lighter flavors. Back to the fish itself, it was melt-in-mouth tenderness, the rich oils was not greasy as o-toro, but the fish has a strange flavor that i cannot tell specificly. Maybe because of the freshness or the way it was kept. The shari was quite weak, the only thing i can tell was its warm temperature. I thought it because of the strong flavor of toro covers its flavor, lets see how the rest work....
Oyama-san scoped an entire row of uni from the box onto the shaped shari wrapped with seaweed, it was pretty juicy and sweet. While the nori was not 100% crispy, when i ate in Japan and Hong Kong, the nori was usually still crispy even after i took pictures. shari again was weak at this point (keep tasting & testing the shari..). I thought it was from Hokkaido but Oyama-san told me the uni was from South Korea.
Quite juicy, but there were some tendons :( underwhelming...
Kinmedai has a lovely grilled skin, underneath is a are texture. The fish itself was not bad but the shari...omg, too weak.
Next came the deep-fried course, Argentine red prawn tempura with shisho leave. As you can see from the picture (if you compare to my review at michelin-starred tempura restaurant Kondo or Fukamachi in Tokyo), it's quite easy to tell the battering is too thick. But compare to the average quality of tempura in mainland China, it was not doubt above average. The trio prawns were not very large in size, and were a bit tough for my liking.
In the meanwhile, a warm bowl of clear calm soup was quite enjoyable...but please lower down your expectations of good dashi.
Aji was very tender and higher in flavor.
Eel was the piece i enjoyed the most at Sushi Oyama. Its seared skin has a lovely fragrance which made me hungry again. The warm flesh soon melted in my mouth.
Quite nice mini sushi rice bowl, topped with all my favorite ingredients: fresh salmon roe, sea urchin and a raw quail egg. After mixed everything together, the texture became creamier, the sweetness of sea urchin combines very well with the popping juicy salmon roes. The chopped spring onions too enhanced the flavor of the bowl.
The last but not the least, a chopped tuna roll with spring onions was served after all the nigiri sushi. The tuna inside was high in flavor, and under the help of nori (seaweed) to cover the bland shari. However, rice is too loose here.
Miso soup was very umami because the it was cooked with a large prawn head.
Tamago is always served as a 'sweet' ending, Oyama's version was between jelly and sponge cake. The combination of sweetness, sake and shrimp flavor was quite fair, but could be stronger and more impressive. While its moist texture was quite memorable - above average level in China.
Finally dessert part: kiwi sorbet was very refreshing, but i prefer the milk pudding on the right side. It was silky and strong in milk flavor. The finishing caramel sauce well enhanced the overall flavor.
As the shari really sucks, the flavor of nigiri was really disappointing. I cannot believe they charge RMB 1280 (USD 195/JPY 215000) for food at this quality...never go back twice.
总的来说，味道不算差，但是也不是很印象深刻。主要的败笔是醋饭，实在是太弱了。一般好的寿司店都会有比较好的酱汁来帮助调味，可是大山家的酱汁也是很弱。所以印象比较深刻的是鳗鱼(甜酱), 海胆鱼子饭 (鱼子是咸的), 还有两款有海苔的。 印象很深刻的是他们家的服务，比较贴心，但是服务员对于食材的认知度远远不够。