Tokyo | TIRPSE ティルプス
Although Chef Shuzo Kishida have moved his 3-Michelin-starred restaurant Quintessence to Shinagawa, the former cous chef Keiichi Terada took over the empty space in Shirokanedai (白金台) and opened Tirpse. Tirpse, or 'esprit' adversely, offers fine modern French food follows the esprit of Quitenssence.
Visited: Oct.30.2015 (Dinner)
Address: BARBIZON25 1F, 5-4-7 Shirokanedai, Minato, Tokyo 108-0071
Hours:12:00～13:00 Saturday Only; 18:00～20:30; Closed on Sundays
Damage: Lunch 6,000++, Dinner 12,000++
Reservation Details: I booked by call. You can also book via hotel concierge or Pocket Concierge app.
The meal started with assorted finger snacks. The first one was a deep-fried potato, it was empy inside and rather like a sphere potato chip. Very crispy and flavored with apple podwer. 'CORN' was made of corn flour coated with corn podwer, inside was corn juices. The third one, 'chestnut', its flakes was sweet and matches well with the foie gras tart. Followed by the 'rapini', which was deep-fried rapini with wasabi podwer. The last one was sun-dried winter melon with yogurt powder. All there five snacks were not bad, but nothing really impressed a lot.
The first dish of the meal contains 3 layers: on the bottom was turnip puree, the center part was fresh uni, topped with a layer of sweet onion and burnt onion powder. The onion was very smooth and sweet, it matches well with the creamy and umami sea urchin in the center.
Simply mixed up everything before eating it. Ika (squid) was very fresh and a bit chewy, the milky flavor of the frozen cream brought a lovely taste to ika. In general was not strong in flavor but very elegant.
I had a lot duck courses recentely but it was my first time having duck heart in a Western restaurant. Never imagined it pairing with baby potato and cream, interesting.
The bread was made with beer yeast, It is quite interesting that the bread was salty while the whipped butter with sour cream was quite plain in comparison. I loved its crust and soft texture, but it was too salty for my liking.
The signature dish at Quintessence - the fish was roasted at a higher temperature then with a lower temperature, after that chef pan-seared it at a low temperature before serving. The flesh was incrediblely succulent while the skin was still crispy, the orginal flavor of the fish was perfectly kept and cheese sauce matches well with the fish.
The menu also includes a cheese dish, and i ordered a glass of dessert wine for pairing. The cheese was frozen to create a unique texture but the flavor was still at its best. Sweetness of the figs compote balanced very well with the cheese.
The dessert was a combination of smooth and crispy, sweet and sour, creamy and refreshing. Chef is quite creative to use balsamic vinegar and olive oil in the dessert to balance the sweetness of panna cotta. Interesting.
I cannot remember how many times i have had pumpkin desserts recently. This dessert nicely brought a taste of the harvest of the land. The steamed pumpkin cake was naturally sweet and smooth, the sourness of apricot and orange powder gives a touch of refreshness, and the rye crisps added a crispy texture to the dish. Lovely.
It is easy to find the esprit of Quintessence here at Tirpse. The consistency was very smooth throughout the menu, my favorite dish was no doubt Q's famous roasted fish. The service was a bit slow as there were only 2 servers in the restaurant, whom need to take care of 5 tables and 2 private rooms. In general, as i am not a big fan of Quintessence's style, i have no plan to pay another visit there. However, for people who cannot get a table at Quintessence, Tirpse is a good alternative choice.
I didn't make a reservation in advance and there were 2 empty tables, while my second main course was removed as i don't eat boar, and there was nothing else for the second main. In the meanwhile, chef double-sized my favorite fish course for me, even so, the entire meal was not really stuffing, i doubt guys need a second round dinner after all.