Lung King Heen 龍景軒
As the first 3-Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in the world, Lung King Heen used to be my favourite place for authentic Cantonese food. It had been a very long while since my last meal there two years ago, it was not really pleasant apart from the signature dim sum. While some how i missed their weekend brunch for some weekend specialities especially dim sum, it is hard to get a reservation and normally a 2-3 months wait is required.
Step into the familiar restaurant on a sunny Saturday noon feels fantastic. Located on the fourth floor of Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, Lung King Heen offers quality Chinese (Cantonese) food with a stunning view of Kowloon. Our reservation was at 12:30pm and it was nearly fully-seated when we arrived around 12:15pm. Most guests there was Cantonese with few tables of foreigners and mainlanders.
The main reason i missed the weekend dim sum menu here was because of the 'Steamed rice rolls with lobster and water chestnut in fermented bean sauce 豉汁龍蝦馬蹄腸粉 (HK$190) ', which was nothing but amazing when i had it last time. Since we are going to order the lobster dumpling as well, this time we decided to try the sea bass rice roll. We were already mouthwatering when we see the crystal rice roll skin arrived the table, and finish with fermented bean sauce. The rice roll skin was as thin and soft as it looks, sea bass was tender but the tastes a bit underwhelming. In comparison, the lobster rice roll left a much better impression.
Baked BBQ pork bun is another popular old favorites at Lung King Heen. Those cute 'pineapples' came with a lovely baked aroma, took one bite and you will find the bun was hearty soft with a slight crispy outerlayer. Inside, the pork was flavorful but a bit too sweet for our liking this time.
A delicious dim sum I never missed, a large steamed lobster and scallop dumpling was beautifully laid in a cute bamboo kit. The lobster and scallop were pretty bouncy and tender, the deep umami taste from the ingredients itself was enjoyable.
My taro-fan friend orders this crispy taro dumpling, the battering looks scary but was incredibly crispy, inside the taro was creamy mildly sweet. Quite stuffing dish we less preferred.
All the dishes we had so far were just okay. But I only care about my favorite abalone puff in town - Lung King Heen's baked whole abalone puff with diced chicken. The tart base was buttery, diced chicken was tender and flavorful with a whole well-cooked abalone to give a umami flavor. Compare to the baked abalone puff with roasted goose I had at Tin Lung Heen last time, Lung King Heen's is still my favorite.
Besides dim sum, we also had appetizer platters with a choice of 3 or 4 appetizers, priced at HK$210 and $250 respectively. We had 蜜汁燒叉燒 Barbecued Pork with Honey Sauce, 香妃雞 Roasted Fragrant Chicken,紅蜇頭 Red Jellyfish and 潮蓮靚燒鵝 Roasted Goose with Plum Sauce which didn't impressed us that much. The BBQ pork and goose were both a bit dry and disappointing. Although the suckling pig has a n amazingly crunchy skin just like crackers and succulent meat underneath, it was not that good as before.
Misleading by its Chinese name, we thought it was a soy braised tofu pot but we were so shocked when this deep-fried dish arrived. Sweet sour sauce was served but we found it was quite heavy to match the slightly oily tofu. The tofu inside was also lack of flavours.
Followed by desserts, my partners had almond cream with egg white which i have tried before. I had mango sago which is quite interesting that chef added mango pudding in his recipes thus you can find mango pudding on the bottom, a fruity and refreshing ending.
Regarding to the fame of its Michelin-three-star as well as high ranking on Asia's 50 Best list and Openrice, we found the food didn't reach our expectations, the impression is actually somehow declining in our opinion. This possibly because we all had been to LKH for several times, also probably because we ordered the wrong dishes.
Although the service was impeccable, the most disappointing part was three flies we found during our visit; two small insect on the menu when we were ordering, and a large fly flying around the restaurant (which usually appears at restaurant with bad environment).
Based on this visit, we coincide that Yan Toh Heen at Intercontinental Hotel a better place for Cantonese dishes and dim sum.
Lung King Heen 龙景軒
Address: 4F,Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St, Central, Hong Kong
Hours: 11:30–15:00, 18:00–22:30 daily