Hiroyasu Kawate, the chef-owner of Florilege, was recently awarded the winner of ‘One to watch 2016‘ by S.Pellegrino. The restaurant moved to its new location last spring, it old place was occupied by 1*Abysse. A new menu is served at the reborned Florilege, the restaurant can fits around 22 diners at a time, except a semi-private room on the side, all the other 16 seats are at the counter and facing the open-kitchen. I had a lovely lunch at Florilege last September, this time, i am back for dinner. Only one set of menu is available
Date: Jan.21.2016 (Dinner) | Last Visit: Sep.2015
Address: B1 Seizan Gairn, 2-5-4, Jingumae, Shibuya ward, Tokyo
Cost: Lunch 6,000 / Dinner 11,500 (Juice pairing JPY 5,000)
The first dish was french toast made of spinach coated with matcha powder. Very moist but not very strong in neither spinach nor matcha flavor.
Next comes a soup dish – steamed mochi rice (glutinous rice) mixed with Kegani meat in Kegani bisque. The soup was incredibly umami, very fresh deep in flavor. The steamed rice was soft and slightly chewy. Satisfying.
The third dish was pan-seared foie gras, served with black truffle chiffon cake filled with lemon mousse. We wached chef Hiroyasu Kawate preparing all the main ingredients for the hot dishes include this foie gras. It was quite delicate and not too heavy. The soft black truffle chiffon with sour and cold lemon mousse paired well with the foie gras. Despite the aromatic shaved French black truffle, the truffle vinegerette perfectly made up the dish.
Soft shell turtle was sourced from Hamanako lake, it was prepared in two ways – braised shell with skin, and deep-fried meat. On the bottom was chawamushi in duck soup.
Next dish was a large, crispy Kuruma prawn served with fresh Hokkaido sea urchin, on the side was soft scrambled egg with cheese, served with prawn consomme. Loved the slightly burnt prawn skin especially the crisy prawn head.
The first main dish was grilled Hirame (flounder) with artichoke. The turnip puree was served by the table. The texuture of the fish was Quintessence-style, fork-tender in the center and crispy outside.
The soft and creamy shirako and crunchy soba noodle give a memroable contrast in texture. Shirako was nicely seared and flavored. While overal it was a bit oily.
The meat dish was to be shared with other guests. There were several meat dishes on served during our visit, such as this duck, chicken or beef, for either first-comers, returning guests or regulars. We had the duck.
The sliced duck meat was succlent and flavorful itself, the red wine and duck blood sauce paired very well with the duck meat. The celery root puree and lily bulb balanced the dish well. A more impressive dish of the night.
The first dessert, or a pre-dessert was mandarin orange mousse, good for palate cleansing.
Next dessert was vanilla mousse with sesame cookie, served with baked hot apple puree. Another dish with nice textures, the flavor was good.
The last dessert of the night – caramel espuma, dried persimmon and burrata cheese.The iced milk brings a lovely iced touch to the dessert, the savory and sweet flavor works unexpectedly good.
The dishes were very creative and satisfying, all the dishes ran smoothly over the menu. Everything was right to point but lack of some surprises. We didn’t found any highlight among all the dishes, overall good but could be better – i don’t know where to be improved though. While considering its price during dinner and amazing juice pairing (indeed lovely juice pairing) which cost us 16k per head, we consider it really worth the value.