Shanghai | Sushi Oyama 鮨 大山

Shanghai is probably the best destination to eat.Nowadays there are increasingly number of high-end sushiya in Shanghai, and Sushi Oyama is one of the most popular one.

上海无疑是现在中国大陆餐饮业发展地最快最全面的城市了,不管你喜欢什么菜式,我很肯定你都会找到心仪的餐厅。我的读者应该都知道我很喜欢吃寿司和日本料理,也经常趁着假期飞去日本吃米其林餐厅。虽然上海有越来越多的新寿司店开出来,但是鮨大山还是很多日料迷的老去处。

Last visit: Jun.8.2015 (Dinner)
Address: 2F, 20 Donghu Rd near Huaihai Middle Rd, Xuhui District, Shanghai (上海市徐汇区东湖路20号2楼,近淮海中路)
Price: RMB 1280+ per person Omakase

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Located on 20 Donghu Road, house for few other famous restaurants such as Ochobo and el Efante, Sushi Oyama is an exquisite Japanese sushi restaurant that offers a multi-course “omakase,” or chef’s choice, menu that changes nightly for reservation-only guests.

鮨 大山位于东湖路20号,除了周日之外每天晚上营业。餐厅只供应一份1280元的Omakase套餐。鮨 大山是一家预约制的寿司店,所以到店之前请记得预约。个人比较推荐寿司吧台的座位,可以看见大山先生亲自制作料理的过程。

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Sushi Oyama serves only one RMB 1280 Omakase menu every night. Make sure you make a reservation before you visit here, seatings at the counter to complete your dining experience.

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Okinawa sea salt, Wasabi, Ginger

We arrived on time at 6:30pm and soonly being seated. The meal starts soon with a cup of hot tea, chef Oyama’s disciple prepared some baked Okinawa sea salt as well as the regular setting of fresh wasabi and ginger.

当晚6:30我们准时到店,很快就入座并开始晚餐。服务员奉上热毛巾和热茶,大山先生的助手为我们准备好冲绳海盐、现磨山葵和酸姜。

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Akagai, Botan Ebi, Scallop (赤貝,牡丹蝦,扇貝)

First came assorted sashimi. The akagai was crunchy and has a very clean taste, Botan shrimp in the middle was juicy and sweet, it came much creamier as i chew it. The scallop was best to serve with sea salt as the chef mentioned, it was pretty juicy and tender. My favorite item among these three was the last one.

第一道是三款刺身,从左边开始,赤贝脆脆的也比较嫩。中间一款是牡丹虾,多汁鲜甜,口感绵密。最右边的扇贝最好是配盐吃,味道比较清爽的一款,也很多汁。

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French oyster (法國生蠔)

The French oyster was served on the side, together with the previous sashimi plate. The clean and juicy taste of fresh oyster nicely waken our plate.

法国生蚝和三款刺身是同时上的,生蚝不算很大只,但是干净利落的味道完美的打开了味蕾。

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Grilled sea bream, Yuzu pepper paste (烤鯛魚,柚子胡椒)

Next came the grilled dish. We were told to have the fish skin first, better without any sauce. The fish skin has a lovely burnt smell, the combination of the slight crispy fish skin and its rich natural oils underneath was superb. While the fish meat part was quite tender. In general not bad, but neither impressive.

接下来是烤物,烤鲷鱼配柚子胡椒。我们被告知要先吃鱼皮,并不要配任何酱汁。经烤过的鱼皮脆脆的,皮下脂肪也很适中不会过腻。鱼肉还算嫩。不过整体味道平平,没有特别印象深刻。

After the appetizers, chef Oyama-san then walked into the counter and prepare to make sushi. He had been making Japanese food for 20 years includes both sushi and hot kitchen, during he opened Sushi Oyama, he worked in Hong Kong, Australia, Tokyo and Osaka.

烤物过后大山先生就走出厨房来到了吧台前准备做寿司。他有20余年的从厨经验,包括寿司和热厨。在来到上海开大山之前,他在香港、澳大利亚、东京和大阪工作。

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1. Chu-toro (金槍魚中腹)

To me is quite wired to have toro as the first piece of sushi, because toro is a red fish that is high in flavor, it is usually served after white fish with lighter flavors. Back to the fish itself, it was melt-in-mouth tenderness, the rich oils was not greasy as o-toro, but the fish has a strange flavor that i cannot tell specificly. Maybe because of the freshness or the way it was kept. The shari was quite weak, the only thing i can tell was its warm temperature. I thought it because of the strong flavor of toro covers its flavor, lets see how the rest work….

第一件寿司就是金枪鱼中腹。一般在高级的寿司店,寿司都是从味道比较淡的白鱼开始,慢慢再上味浓的红身鱼。然而在大山,第一款就是味浓的红身鱼,而且还是金枪鱼中腹,的确是比较奇怪的一件事。鱼肉本身入口即化,味道也比较浓,但是不知道是新鲜度还是保存的问题,鱼吃起来有股怪怪的味道。另一方面,根本吃不出醋饭的味道,只感受到了它的温度。

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2. Uni (海膽)

Oyama-san scoped an entire row of uni from the box onto the shaped shari wrapped with seaweed, it was pretty juicy and sweet. While the nori was not 100% crispy, when i ate in Japan and Hong Kong, the nori was usually still crispy even after i took pictures. shari again was weak at this point (keep tasting & testing the shari..). I thought it was from Hokkaido but Oyama-san told me the uni was from South Korea.

大山师傅拿出一盒韩国的海胆,并用勺子舀了一整拍,放到醋饭上。海胆本身水分很足,淡淡的甜味和海苔的鲜味搭配也很好。可惜海苔有点软了,我在日本香港等地吃寿司的时候,就算拍完照,海苔都是脆的。

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3. Shimaji (竹莢魚)

Quite juicy, but there were some tendons 🙁 underwhelming…

有筋,味道干净,但是因为寡味的醋饭和弱弱的酱汁,整体没味道。

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4. Kinmedai (金目鯛)

Kinmedai has a lovely grilled skin, underneath is a are texture. The fish itself was not bad but the shari…omg, too weak.

接下来一款是轻轻炙烤过的金目鲷。烤过的部分很香嫩,中间生的那部分多汁。这款也是味道平平,好在有点炙烤味。

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5. Aburi Otoro (炙金槍魚大腹)

很少在高端寿司店吃到熟的大腹,还好过关。鱼无疑是入口即化,可惜饭真的不行,酱汁也弱,浪费了一块好料。

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Surf clam, Miso marinated scallop (北極貝, 味增腌扇貝)

 

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Argentine red prawn tempura (阿根廷紅蝦天婦羅)

Next came the deep-fried course, Argentine red prawn tempura with shisho leave. As you can see from the picture (if you compare to my review at michelin-starred tempura restaurant Kondo or Fukamachi in Tokyo), it’s quite easy to tell the battering is too thick. But compare to the average quality of tempura in mainland China, it was not doubt above average. The trio prawns were not very large in size, and were a bit tough for my liking.

接下来是炸物,阿根廷红虾天妇罗。和在日本吃到的米其林天妇罗店的质量当然不能比,光看照片就知道它的皮有点厚。虾个头也不是很大,口感也不是很嫩。

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Clear clam soup (蛤蜊清湯)

In the meanwhile, a warm bowl of clear calm soup was quite enjoyable…but please lower down your expectations of good dashi.

反倒是一碗简单的隔离清汤比较好味….

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6. Aji (鰺)

Aji was very tender and higher in flavor.

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7. Eel (鰻)

Eel was the piece i enjoyed the most at Sushi Oyama. Its seared skin has a lovely fragrance which made me hungry again. The warm flesh soon melted in my mouth.

鳗鱼应该是当晚最喜欢的一贯了,甜甜的酱汁掩盖了寡味的醋饭的味道。烤过的鳗鱼很香,正值鳗鱼产季,鱼比较肥但是不腻,绵密的口感很不错。

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Salmon roe, uni and quail egg over rice (海膽三文魚籽飯)

Quite nice mini sushi rice bowl, topped with all my favorite ingredients: fresh salmon roe, sea urchin and a raw quail egg. After mixed everything together, the texture became creamier, the sweetness of sea urchin combines very well with the popping juicy salmon roes. The chopped spring onions too enhanced the flavor of the bowl.

另外很喜欢的一款就是海胆三文鱼籽饭,配一个生的鹌鹑蛋和葱。所有材料都搅拌后整晚饭都变得creamy了,入口就爆浆的三文鱼籽很鲜美,海胆多汁也甜,加上蛋黄和葱香,棒。

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Chopped tuna with spring onion roll (香蔥金槍魚卷)

The last but not the least, a chopped tuna roll with spring onions was served after all the nigiri sushi. The tuna inside was high in flavor, and under the help of nori (seaweed) to cover the bland shari. However, rice is too loose here.

最后一件寿司是香葱吞拿鱼卷。卷内的吞拿鱼味道比较浓,在海苔的帮助下整体变得更惹味,掩盖了寡味的饭。和前面提过的一样,海苔不够脆。

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Miso soup(味增湯)

Miso soup was very umami because the it was cooked with a large prawn head.

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Tamago (玉子)

Tamago is always served as a ‘sweet’ ending, Oyama’s version was between jelly and sponge cake. The combination of sweetness, sake and shrimp flavor was quite fair, but could be stronger and more impressive. While its moist texture was quite memorable – above average level in China.

玉子烧都是在所有寿司后作为“甜品”享用,一般分为偏向啫喱口感的或者偏向海绵蛋糕口感的,大山的玉子烧是介于两者之前。可以吃得出鲜美的蛋味、清酒和虾味,可是不算很浓。在大陆可算中上水平。

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Dessert: Kiwi sorbet & milk pudding with caramel sauce (甜品: 奇異果雪葩 & 焦糖牛奶布丁)

Finally dessert part: kiwi sorbet was very refreshing, but i prefer the milk pudding on the right side. It was silky and strong in milk flavor. The finishing caramel sauce well enhanced the overall flavor.

饭后甜品是奇异果雪葩和焦糖牛奶布丁。前者比较清新,而我更喜欢后者入口即化的口感,奶味也很足,和焦糖酱的搭配也很不错。

 

As the shari really sucks, the flavor of nigiri was really disappointing. I cannot believe they charge RMB 1280 (USD 195/JPY 215000) for food at this quality…never go back twice.

总的来说,味道不算差,但是也不是很印象深刻。主要的败笔是醋饭,实在是太弱了。一般好的寿司店都会有比较好的酱汁来帮助调味,可是大山家的酱汁也是很弱。所以印象比较深刻的是鳗鱼(甜酱), 海胆鱼子饭 (鱼子是咸的), 还有两款有海苔的。 印象很深刻的是他们家的服务,比较贴心,但是服务员对于食材的认知度远远不够。

 

 

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