Shanghai | Tatsumi Sushi 龍海寿司

Sushi Tatsumi is the sister restaurant of another two famous Japanese eateries Sushi Naramoto (奈良本) and Ochobo (千代保), which opened by the famous Chinese actor Xu Zheng (徐峥). I have been to Sushi Naramoto in 2012, it was honored one of 50 best restaurants in China in 2013. Ochobo serves exquisite kaiseki which emphasizes on tempura. I expected a lot on Sushi Tatsumi as it is one of the most famous sushiya in Shanghai. 龍海壽司是上海最好的壽司餐廳之一。和另兩家著名日本餐廳奈良本壽司和千代保天婦羅懷石料理同屬一家公司,是演員徐崢投資的店,龍海壽司是他占股最多的餐廳。

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Visited: July.22.2015 (Dinner)

Address: 207 Mengzi Road, Shanghai, China

Hours: 12:00-14:30, 18:00-22:30, closed on Sundays

Menu: Lunch sets, Dinner Omakase $880

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Tatsumi can serve 12 diners at the sushibar as well as a 10 seater private room. We booked the seats in front of Chef Matsuno, who has an experience of 12 years and had worked in a famous sushiya in Roppongi before he moved to Shanghai with his Shanghainese wife 5 years ago. He uses only the freshest ingredients sourced directly from different parts of Japan.

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龍海壽司主打壽司吧台座位,可容納12位顧客,餐廳另設有10人座的私人包廂。主廚松野先生來自東京六本木,已有12年的壽司經驗。龍海壽司只選用最新鮮的日本空運的食材用於每晚的omakase。我們很榮幸地訂到了松野先生前的座位。

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Dinner started with 4 assorted appetizers.  The tofu skin rolled with shrimp paste was smooth and umami; Japanese tomato puree with tofu skin juice nicely boost my taste bud; Braised tuna chunks with Arima sanshou (pepper) has a deep flavor and was very delicious; Yellow okra with scallops has a very clean taste, nicely cleanse the palate and ready for the hot dishes.

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第一道菜是4款冷菜拼盤。虾肉豆皮卷口感順滑,味道鮮美;和風番茄配豆腐衣汁口感清新;有馬山椒配金槍魚肉平衡地很不錯,魚肉惹味;黃秋葵配扇貝鮮甜。四款冷菜很好地打開了味蕾。

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Next came sashimi followed one by one. Kinmedai (金目鯛) has a very clean taste; Mirugai (ミル貝) was crunchy and has a sweet hint; Shima-Aji(縞鯵) has higher oil contents yet very clean and juicy; Chutoro(中卜口) melted on my tongue like butter and soon turned into rich oils with a endless aftertaste. All four kinds of sashimi were very fresh and umami, probably so far the best i had in Shanghai.

接下来便是四款刺身。金目鯛非常新鮮,簡單乾淨的味道;象拔蚌脆脆的帶有點甜味;竹莢魚的脂肪含量相比前兩款要稍高一些,但是味道十分清甜;金槍魚中腹在舌尖上便化成了油脂,回味無窮。刺身部份很滿意,是目前在上海吃到質量最高的了。

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I loved the concept of grilled the fish with Longjing tea leaf, which brought a very unique and refreshing aroma to the fish. The white flesh was umami but i expected it to be more moist and tender.

用龍井茶來烤魚很有創意,整道菜瀰漫着一股淡淡的茶香味。可惜魚肉有點干身,如果再嫩一些就完美了。

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The vegetable part of grilled dish was Matsutake from Yunnan Provence. The Matsutake has a very lovely fragrance, tastes juicy.烤物的蔬菜部份是來自運來雲南的松茸。新鮮的松茸烤后有股特別的香味,口感也比較多汁。

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Next was the dish i came for, as well as the one i expected the most - wagyu roll with fresh sea urchin. The wagyu was sliced and seared with fresh wasabi in front of us, chef Matsuno rolled it up with two large slice of fresh sea urchin and seasoned it with homemade lemon soy sauce. It perfectly melted in my mouth with a light seared flavor and endless creamiess and umami. It was seriously a mouthful of bless.

接下來便是龍海的招牌菜﹣和牛海膽卷。松野師傅把和牛抹上一些現磨山葵后現炙一下,加上兩大塊海膽后捲起,淋上一些自家制的檸檬醬油。口感和味道真的是太棒了,和牛豐富的油脂和入口即化的海膽平衡地非常棒。

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The first piece was Hobo, which is also known as Robin Fish, the texture was quite similar to red snapper. The second piece was cutlass fish, chef slightly seared its outer layer thus it has a burnt hint. The first two pieces were very fresh and have vey clean taste.

For the shari part, not too bad compare to Oyama. But too bland comapre to those upscale sushiya in Japan and Hong Kong i have been to. Every single grain was firm and chewy, passed the test. In the meanwhile, i found the size of nigiri sushi very small - seriously the smallest i have had in all fine sushiyas. While those made by the Chinese chefs on the side were larger in size.

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Finally my favorite otoro. This piece marbled, pinky lard of sea looks too perfect to eat. It was rich in oils but not greasy at all, with a lovely sweet twist and endless aftertaste. The best so far in Shanghai and mainland China.

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Followed by iwashi (sardine), which was too high in flavor, the fresh flesh was tender and very umami.

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The botan ebi with tamago was served in a cute bowl, it was a indulgent combination of creamy and rich textures. The ebi itself was very juicy and sweet, paired well with the umami egg yolk.

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Maguro was marinated in soy thus higher in flavor. While i found this piece could be stronger, as it was hard to tell it was marinated. On the other hand, the fish itself was fresh and juicy.

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Anago means it is almost the end of the meal. To be honest, as the size of Chef Matsuno's sushi was quite small, we didn't feel very filling at this point. Fortunately the anago was very pleasant, warm and melt-in-mouth tenderness, the white flesh was very delcious and the sweet sauce works very well.

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Tamago is always my favorite piece, but very few sushiya made really impressive ones. The one at Tatsumi was quite weak - very hard to taste the prawn flavor, and it was not very 'eggy'. I expected the texture to be more moist.

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Two flavors of ice-cream were served at Tatsumi, we all tried tofu flavor instead of sake flavor. Not bad.

This is a more pleasant omakase experience in Shanghai, definitely cannot compete with Japan but quite nice in Shanghai. I don't have too much sushi experience in Shanghai because for most of the time, i'd rather save the money for my Tokyo trip. Among the sushiya i have been to in Shanghai (Sushi Naramoto奈良本, Oyama 大山, Tsukiji Aozora Sandaime, Sushi Ichi), Tatsumi is not doubt the best and the most valuable one, next comes Naramoto. Another thing i want to point out is its shari, which i found could be stronger. The neta (fish) part was pretty well-done. Chef Matsuno is very friendly and speaks moderate Chinese and English. Service was good but the servers could have better knowlege of the ingredients. Anyway, It was a lovely meal with a great company.

我並沒去過很多上海的壽司店,因為我寧可把錢省下來去東京吃,但是在我去過的幾家中,包括奈良本、大山、筑地青空三代目和鮨一,龍海壽司可以說是我最喜歡的,其次是奈良本。不过除了寿司尺寸外,还有一点要指出的是他们家的醋饭,个人觉得味道还可以再浓一点。鱼肉食材本身都处理的很棒。松野先生很友善,跟他交流也很開心。整體而言,是個不錯的omakase經歷。