Tokyo | Les Creations de Narisawa ナリサワ

Les Créations de Narisawa is one of the most famous restaurants in Tokyo, honored the top of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants by S.Pellegrino in 2013 & 2014, and the second of 2015.It is also consistently wins Michelin 2 stars in recent years and listed among the TOP 100 on Tabelog.

Narisawa 是東京最有名的餐廳之一,不僅連續獲得米芝蓮(米其林)二星,還在2013和2014年列表上名列首位,2015年名列第二。它還是Tabelog上面排名前100位的餐廳。

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Narisawa locates in Aoyama (青山), near Aoyama Itchome Station(青山一丁目). It is right behind a modern building on its own, which is quite easy to find. We recoginzed it as we walked along the main street without using GoogleMap.

Narisawa 位於青山,在青山一丁目站附近,步行2分鐘左右。相比其他有名又隱蔽的餐廳,Narisawa真的是非常好找,就在一棟非常現代化的銀灰色大樓的開放式後院內。

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Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa  trained in Switzerland under Frédy Girardet, in France under Joël Robuchon, and in Italy at Antica Osteria del Ponte. After 9-year study about gastonomic cooking, chef Narisawa came back to Japan and opened his own first restaurant in Odawara, Kanagawa, and named it "La Napoule". He subsequently moved the entire operation to central Tokyo.

主廚成澤由浩在歐洲從出九年後回到了日本開他自己的餐廳。他在非常著名的chef手下實習過,比如瑞士的Frédy Girardet,法國的Joël Robuchon還有意大利的Antica Osteria del Ponte。

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The main dining room is not very big, only 10 tables and there's no private dining room.

餐廳很小,只有9張檯,並且沒有私人包廂。

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"Bread of the Forest 2010"

The bread dough was brought to our table for ferment. The dough itself was infused by chestnut, beauty berry and ersimmon, fermented by a candlelight underneath. First time dining in a restaurant that have real freshly baked bread in front of us. Cannot wait to have it baked!

這麼多在高級餐廳用餐的經歷,Narisawa還是第一家在我眼前發酵麵包並且烤制的。麵糰內還有當季的栗子和一些雜莓干。下面點著一個蠟燭讓麵糰更快地發酵。

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Essence of the Forest infused with oak and cedar Satoyama Scenery

As the bread was fermenting, we were served with some other courses first. The first course was so pretty like a paiting. Made up of deep-fried burdock root, Japanese wild herbs, moss (matcha and spinach chlorophyll) and soil (carbonized bamboo powder) and homemade fermented yogurt. There was also a cup of real spring water on the side, yes, only spring water, without any special taste. Feel the nature?

由於麵糰還在發酵,餐廳就先出了其他菜。第一道菜真的是美麗如畫,整個構造就是以森林為主題。下面綠色的粉是用抹茶和菠菜做的,用作草地。黑色的粉是碳做的,用作泥土。樹幹是炸的牛蒡,樹葉是一些綠色野菜。在“泥土”下面還有一些自家制的酸奶。

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No seasonings includes salt was used in the whole dish. The deep-fried bucdrock root was crispy but nothing special about the taste.

整道菜沒有任何調味,連鹽都沒有加。而且一旁的那杯水,真的只是一杯沒有任何味道的泉水。過於原始了哈哈?

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Sumi comes together with the Essence of the Forest, it looks quite interesting, just like stones. The 'black stone' is actually deep-fried onion covered with carbonized leek and flour. It is still warm, the outlayer was soft and the onion inside is incredibly sweet.

一起上來的還有Sumi,看起來像黑色的石頭,其實是炸洋蔥和碳粉做的麵包外皮。整個一件還是暖暖的,洋蔥非常地肥而且甜,麵粉做的外皮很軟。

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The bread dough was finally ready to bake, in a 350 degree hot stone pot . The waitress divided the dough into two, and covered the pot with a plank and leave it to bake by our table. We were told the bread would be ready in 15 minutes.

過了一會兒,服務員就過來把我們發酵好的麵糰拿去350度的石鍋內烤制。最後蓋上一塊木板,再稍等15分鐘就可以吃了。

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After 15 minutes, the bread is ready!

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Another highlight was the butter.It looks interesting but so cute, with a mossy looking. It is house made and coated in olive, cocoa powder and dried spinach to make it a mossy looking. It is creamy, with a bit bitter taste from the cocoa powder, perfect to go with the warm bread.

Narisawa的牛油是另外一個亮點,整個外形看起來像是一塊覆滿青苔的石頭。外面的“青苔”其實是用可可粉,橄欖和菠菜粉做的,裡面的牛油也是自家制。整個牛油吃起來非常清新,口感綿滑,一點點苦澀的可可粉增添了另外一層惹味的口感。

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Another bread is quite normal compare to the previous one. 相比現烤的麵包,這款麵包就顯得非常普通。

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Winter melon

The soup on the menu was actually winter melon with snake, while due to my diet restrcitions, mine was changed to soup with Taimo and dashi, which is a taro ball in the center. The texture of the winter melon and taro were creamy and melt-in-my-mouth, the soup itself loos simple but was really tasty. My friend had the snake soup and she said it is genius.

冬瓜芋頭湯。其實本來是冬瓜和蛇肉的搭配,由於本人也不吃這種奇怪的肉,所以主廚幫我換成了芋頭湯。雖然是全素,但是味道卻異常鮮美。冬瓜和芋頭均無任何絲絲在裡面,真的是入口即化。朋友吃的是蛇肉湯,並且給予它充分的肯定。

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Langoustine,Garden 

Next comes a salad with langoustine, so happy to see some real greens on my table (i love vegetables!)

接下來是龍蝦沙拉佐干貝醬,能看到這麼多綠色的蔬菜真的是好開心!

The langoustine was from Odawara, it was gently pan fried with the shell, but the meat inside was still rare - incredibly tender, just like sashimi. Topped with some house made scallop sauce to intensify the 'oceany' taste to the whole plate.

小龍蝦雖然帶殼烤過,但是裡面的肉卻像刺身一般鮮嫩。帶子醬強化了海味,個人非常喜歡的一道菜。

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Spanish mackerel,18 grains 

The sauce was made side by our table, quite cool. Amazing presentation after applying the yuzu and liquid nitrogen.As you see, the fish itself was grilled-very crispy skin, inside was almost sashimi texture-tender and bit chewy. The mixture of 18 grains is pretty healthy, consists of brown rice, pearl barley, black beans... The highlight of the dish should be the sauce, which tastes like black pepper - a little bit spicy and made the simple fish tastes so good.

在桌邊現做的醬汁。接下來是西班牙鯖魚配18種穀物。現做的醬汁讓整道菜看起來太仙了。如圖所示,鯖魚本身烤地非常地脆,但是內部卻是透明的,口感異常彈牙非常鮮美。18種五穀包括薏米、黑豆、糙米、小米等等,很健康的搭配。現做的醬汁吃起來辣辣的,有點黑胡椒的成份在裡面。整體味道不錯。

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Conger pike, wihite winter root vegetable

Different from the previous fish dishes, this one is deep fried. Finish with Sparassis crispa, white jew's ear fungus and garlic sauce with cappuccino style.The outer layer was crispy and was so tender inside, the white jew's ear fungus was crispy which enhanced the texture. While i don't like the pickled radish on the top, it was sour and quite conflict with the overall flavor.

不同於之前的幾道海鮮,這道鰻魚是經過炸的,無論是味道還是口感都和前面不同。炸鰻本身外皮香脆,裡面的肉又很嫩。一旁的绣球菌和白木耳吃起來脆脆的,又是另外一種口感。個人不是很喜歡白色的那兩根資蘿蔔,太酸。

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Tile fish, maitake mushroom

The tile fish was cooked in a high heat resistant plastic bag, which could perfectly keep the original flavor of the food inside.

在耐高溫的塑料袋蒸制的方頭魚和松茸,百分之百保留了食物最原本的味道。

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It was cooked with duck sauce and maitake mushroom to make the flavor stronger. It tastes more like a sweet soy based, but a little bit too salty for me.

整道菜是用鴨汁蒸的,味道很鮮美。但是由於魚本身就是海鮮,有鹹味,加上咸咸的鴨汁 (其實很像豉汁), 整體感覺有點咸。(可能是本人吃的也比較清淡)

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Oyester

Look this mystery dish, cannot wait to see what's inside.

接下來的生蠔,看起來很神秘。

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A rather larger oyster roasted with onion, sorrel and onion esseence. The onions onions are from Amanohashidate and are much sweeter than the famous sweet Awaji onions. We both love this dish a lot, the oyster was 'meaty', with a sweet flavor from the onion and the sauce.

打開蓋子后,呈現在眼前的是一直非常大的生蠔。生蠔是和日本北部宮津市的天橋立的洋蔥一起烤制的,這裡的洋蔥比有名的淡路島甜洋蔥還要甜,加上醬汁,整個味道就像甜甜的紅燒味一樣。生蠔本身非常肥美,我和朋友都非常喜歡這道菜。

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"Sumi 2009" Hida Beef

The Hida beef looks like a lump of charcoal, was actually coated in Shiga leek charcoal powder. After being presented to our table, it was then taken away to be sliced.

日本最高级的飛彈牛,外层用滋贺县的韭葱做成的碳粉,看起来像一块黑炭。之后服务员又拿回厨房切块。

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The beef looks amazing! Looks really juicy and tender. Accomplished by bordelaise sauce and black fermented garlic sauce, peppers and sweet onion.

这块牛肉横截面看起来太诱人了! 看起来就非常多汁鲜嫩。

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Deep fried blow fish

The texute of the fish was interesting. I expected it to be really crispy but tender inside, but it was actually chewy. Although it is deep fried, it was not oily at all. As you see, there's no oil on the paper neither. Infused by some chili powder, the overall taste was really good.

我以為這個肉會很嫩,其實口感是QQ的非常彈牙。外層炸地香脆卻沒有一滴多餘的油膩。辣粉和呼叫等簡單的調味也增添了一絲美味。

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Chestnut

Finally, comes our all-time favorite part- dessert. The theme of the first dessert was chestnut.

下面就是我們最喜欢的甜品環節,第一道甜品是以栗子为主。首先,食器非常有質感,給我們一種賞心悅目的感覺。服務員給我們淋上yuzu冰霜醬,增添一絲酸酸的味道,平衡了與甜甜的栗子間的口感。裡面還有一塊mochi(麻糬?),糯糯的,為整道甜品增加了另一層口感。

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Chocolate

A chocolate fondant with chocolate ice-cream and chocolate foam, all made with chocolate from Domori, Italy. Both of us 'wow'(ed) when we took the first bite, the chocolate foundate was so strong in flavor and really creamy. They were made of dark chocolate but not the one seriously bitter, just a perfect balance between the sweetness the bitter.

這道巧克力味道真的是太完美了,我和朋友都表示真的真的非常好吃。下面的黑巧克力fondant熱熱的,口感雖然不爆漿,但是卻非常綿滑,猶如巧克力慕斯,一點都不會過於甜膩。最上面的巧克力冰淇淋和泡沫配著下面熱熱的慕斯吃,愛。這裡的巧克力用的都是最頂尖的意大利的Domori,在代官山有家小店有賣。

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Petit Fours Trolley 

Then wer were presented with the amazing dessert trolley, it was like heaven to two girls with sweettooth. We cannot decide which ones to have, we really want to try all of them but out stomach have limited room left.

最後的甜品車真的讓我們兩個甜魔愛不釋手,又不知從何下手,因為看起來都很好吃但是真的吃不下太多了。還好每一件真的是一小塊,塞牙縫。

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Hopefully each of them are even smaller than bite size, and very moderate level of sweetness. The plum  macaron was a quite nice one, because the sourness was much over the sweetness, which brought some refreshment after having so many sweets. Other pieces i had such as pumpkin cheesecake, purple sweet potato tart, green citrus puree, matcha jelly candy with sesame, mini yuzu fruit bowl....Anyway, none of them disappoints.

試了幾款都很不錯,前面的酸梅杏仁小圓餅(馬卡龍)酸味勝過甜味,很喜歡。還有南瓜芝士蛋糕、紫薯塔等都不錯。

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Accomplished with a cup of tea or coffee, nice catch up.

The overall dining experience at Narisawa was amazing. But to be honest, what makes the food memorable is not the tastes, but the presentation of the food. The dishes i consider really good (taste) was the bread, lobster, oyster and chocolate. The service is quite okay, while some Japanese attendant cannot speak English very fluently, but the white attendant definitely helps a lot in introducing each course in details.

Regarding to its 2 star (consistently) and among the top on Asia's Best 50's list, and also among the TOP 100 on Tabelong, it definitely worth a visit. While the tastes is really depends, if you want to make it safe, just go and try the lunch, which is more affordable and you can also enjoy most (90%) of the signature dishes. To me, i never regret i made a visit here.

總體來說,在Narisawa的用餐經歷非常滿意。其實很大一部份都歸功於食物的呈現方式,而並非食物本身的味道。要說真的味道很讓人印象深刻的菜,個人覺得是麵包、生蠔、龍蝦沙拉還有最後的巧克力甜品。所以味道也是仁者見仁智者見智了。一些日籍服務員的英文不是很好,但是白人還是可以很詳細地介紹菜色 (我根本記不住,食材太多了)。

我覺得Narisawa還是值得一試的,考慮到它各項排名還有誘人的呈現方式。保守點的話可以來午餐,價格比較親民而且又可以吃到90%的招牌菜。


Les Créations de Narisawa ナリサワ

Address:2-6-15 Minamiaoyama, Minato, Tokyo 107-0062, Japan 東京都港区南青山2-6-15

Tel: +81 3-5785-0799

Website: www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com

Hours: 12:00-3:00pm, 6:30-9:30pm (Closed Sundays)

Reservation: Can be made on their website, 1 month in advance. They don't except reservation for 1 person.

Date of visiting: Dec.5.2014 (Fri)

Price: Lunch 1,2000 ++ JPY, Dinner 2,0000 ++ JPY

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