Tokyo | ESqUISSE エスキス
Esquisse is a 2-Michelin-starred French restaurant in Ginza. Take the definition ‘drawing’ in French, Esquisse fragilely shapes this definitition from the wealth of ideas of the chef's creation. By using the blossed nourish produce of Japan, Chef Lionel Beccat perfeclty expresses himself and skilfully incorporates ideas from travelling in Europe, Asia and the Middle East and his experiences.
Visited: Sep.04.2015 (Lunch)
Address: 東京都中央区銀座5-4-6 ロイヤルクリスタル銀座 9Ｆ (9F, Royal Crystal Ginza, 5-4-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo)
Hours: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-8:30pm, Closed Sunday dinner
Damage: Lunch 11,000++, Dinner 19,000++
Esquisse only serves set menus which come with a glass of wine. Bottled water (distilled/sparkling/mineral) is also inclusive in the set. Lunch is priced at JPY 11,000 for four dishes and a dessert, with complimentart amuse bouche, petit fours and tea/coffee.
Kicked off with lemon mousse with escargot oil, topped with orange peel and jelly. The texture was smooth and airy, its sourness nicely awakened my palate.
The sardine was lightly vinegared, very moist and umami. Tomato jelly was delight and refreshing, its powder was sour, both forms of tomato balanced well with the sardine. While the Australian black truffle was on the weak side.
Besides the main restaurant, Esquisse also has a bakery Pain d' ESQUISSE and a lounge SALON de ESQUISSE. The bakery serves one of the most famous French breads among all the fine dining restaurants in Tokyo. The tradtional baguette has a wonderful cursty and chewy out-layer, the inside was soft. Later on there are also rolls of sourdough available.
I loved the spread - a mixture of butter and cream cheese, creamy and airy. Salt is also served on the side in case you prefer salted spread.
The second dish was vegetables in different forms and textures: smashed avocado, fermented cucumbers, pickeled tomatoes and eggplant, slowcooked beetroot and carrots, etc, with some roasted peanuts to add more textures to the dish. Although i love vegetables, this dish was not very impressive on the flavor side.
Followed by the slow-cooked trout from Yamanashi (山梨), garnished with mushroom, cucumber, grapfruit and its puree, feel, crescent oil, sour cream. The orange-pink flesh itself was perfectly melt-in-mouth tenderness, high in oil centents and very fragrant. It was pretty umami by itself. The sauces on the side matches the fish very well and didn't beyond its naturally umaminess. The salmon-skin crisps on the side was delectable.
My readers must know that i am a pescetarian, so the chef replaced the meat dish with the French lobster, paired with spinach, mushroom, celery podwer and black garlic puree; the sauce was French wine sauce. The lobster was not very large in size and could be more tender, the seasonings were pretty.
The dessert was infused by Hokkaido sweetcorn, made with different parts of the corn and served in different forms. The pudding was very smooth and has a strong corn flavor; the corn chips and ssilk were very crispy; corn sorbet was refreshing. Just a dish of edible art.
At the end of the meal, every guest will receive a small gift from the chef - another box of petit fours :)
The presentation of the food was really eye-catching, quite satisfying Japanese-inspired French food by using very high quality ingredients. While i personally expected more on that, which means the food was good but i need something 'wow'. The service is no doubt 100/100, very bright and simple-modern decors in the restaurant. But pretty worth for the value as the set also comes with drinks.